: : Giant Folds

Big swells are wasted around here.We don’t have the proper infrastructure to make it break in a rideable fashion when it gets over head-high. Such a shame, ’cause there’s virtually NO wind and conditions are optimal. Somewhere with a reef would be cooking right now.

It’s a dead south swell at 180 degrees, so south-facing beaches like Bondi are copping the brunt of the energy (hopefully shifty sand). It’s got a decent interval and trademarks of a ground swell. Proper intervals are tricky for our tourists straight off the plane, as they race down to the waters edge, fully dressed, play around for a bit before being taken out by a monster set creeping in, undetected. I’m sure the lifeguards will have their hands full.

The sun is out; it’s a cracker day. Plenty of crew already sunbaking and enjoying the day.
If you’re got plenty of time, drive, drive far and you’d score.

:: uge